Compost Toilet

All content on this website is provided for information only, and everyone is responsible for ensuring that they abide by their local laws and regulations that pertain to the subject matter presented here.

Source material: The Humanure Handbook and The Compost Toilet Handbook by Joseph Jenkins (the material is summarized from Joseph’s books, and the images are taken from his books; if you have any desire to find out more information about the below content, please purchase Joseph’s books: https://humanurehandbook.com/)

Goal of this webpage:

To provide enough information on one webpage to enable anyone to build and use a compost toilet system. I would like to get this information to as many people as possible that could benefit from it. Proper sanitation and human excrement management is one of the most important measures to ensure a safe living environment that is free from disease-causing pathogens. If you know of someone who could benefit from this information, but they do not have access to the internet, feel free to print this webpage and give it to them (use Google translate or similar to translate the site into another language, if applicable, prior to printing.)

Why use a Compost Toilet System?

1. No Water Required
   • Operates without flushing, conserving precious drinking water.
2. Odor-Free When Managed Properly
   • Use of carbon-rich cover material (like sawdust) effectively controls odor and flies
   • When properly used and managed, a compost toilet system is much more pleasant to use than a typical pit latrine system
3. Off-Grid Compatible
   • No need for plumbing, electricity, or sewage infrastructure.
4. Turns “Waste” into Resource
   • Humanure is composted into nutrient-rich soil, useful for gardening and landscaping.
5. Sanitation in Low-Income or Remote Areas
   • Affordable and practical for areas without functioning sewage systems.
6. Reduces Pollution
   • Prevents contamination of groundwater and water bodies, unlike pit latrines and septic systems.
   • In 2022, it was estimated that 420 million people still practice open defecation, which means they defecate outdoors in fields, forests, or other open spaces. This can be a very unsanitary practice, as there are many types of parasitic and disease-causing worms that result from the combination of human excrement going in to soil.
7. Flexible Installation
   • Can be installed indoors, outdoors, in homes, schools, hospitals, and emergency shelters. Due to the odor-free nature of the toilet, it can even be kept in the corner of a bedroom.
8. Low Cost and DIY Friendly
   • Can be built with simple, recycled materials like buckets and scrap wood.
9. Educational Value
   • Promotes awareness of sustainability, sanitation, and the nutrient cycle.
10. Minimal Maintenance
    • Requires only periodic emptying and compost bin management.

What is a compost toilet system?

A compost toilet system recycles organic excrement produced by human beings, including feces, urine, and toilet paper. The final contents of the compost bin can be used as any other compost material would be used (but again, always abide by local laws and regulations). A typical compost toilet system is made up of the following components:

1. A toilet seat attached to a frame, with a waterproof receptacle (such as a 5-gallon bucket) located under the toilet seat.
2. A “toilet cover material” container next to the toilet seat. See the below for common cover materials, and what to avoid.
3. A compost bin is the third component of the composting system. This is where the actual process of composting occurs.
   

In the below image, the far left green bin is the “toilet cover material” container, the center of the image shows the toilet seat with frame and blue compost container underneath, and the far right blue bin is an empty bin that replaces the middle bin when it gets full.

✅ Common Toilet Cover Materials

1. Sawdust
   • Fine, moist sawdust is ideal and readily available from sawmills.
   • Should NOT be dry, fluffy, or chemically treated.
     
2. Peat Moss
   • Readily absorbs moisture and controls odor well, but not sustainable if mined destructively.
     
3. Rice Hulls
   • Lightweight and effective, especially in areas where rice is produced.
     
4. Sugarcane Bagasse
   • A fibrous byproduct of sugarcane processing; works well when ground or shredded.
     
5. Shredded Leaves or Grass Clippings
   • Useful if aged or partially decomposed; avoid if chemically treated.
     
6. Shredded Straw or Hay
   • Works best when finely shredded; can be bulky if not processed.
     
7. Coconut Coir
   • Sustainable and moisture-retentive, though more expensive.
     
8. Rotten Wood Shavings or Chips
   • Use only if partially decomposed and moist; not recommended if too coarse or dry.

❌ What to Avoid

• Dry, dusty material that won’t absorb well (e.g., kiln-dried wood shavings).
• Chemically treated or painted wood residues.
• Synthetics, plastics, or trash.
• Cover material that is completely dry and fluffy—it won’t block odor effectively. (If this is the only material that is available, simply leave it out in the rain for a while.)
• Dirt; the goal of composting is to end up with rich, healthy soil. Thus, you don’t start with soil in the composting process.

The key is that the material should be plant-based, carbon-rich, slightly moist, and fine enough to cover the toilet contents completely.

The composting bin is the third component of the composting system. This is where the actual process of composting occurs. See below for the basic requirements of the compost bins:

✅ Basic Requirements of a Compost Bin

1. At Least Two Bins
   • One active bin for current deposits, and one resting (curing) bin for aging compost.
   • Each bin typically rests for about 1 year after it’s filled.
2. Adequate Size
   • Minimum recommended size: 1 cubic meter (about 3.3 feet per side).
   • Smaller bins (e.g., from 4 wood pallets) can work for households.
   • Bins for larger groups may need to be much larger and mechanically managed.
   • A 5 foot x 5 foot x 4 foot tall area is a good size for a compost bin. You want to be able to easily reach to the middle of the pile. The bin can be as long as you want, but the width should be limited to about 5 feet.
3. Above-Ground Construction
   • Keeps the pile aerobic (oxygen-rich), unlike pit latrines, which are anaerobic.
   • Prevents intrusion by animals and allows air circulation.
4. Biological Sponge Base
   • A thick layer (~18 inches or ½ meter) of straw, grass, or leaves on the bottom.
   • Acts as a moisture buffer and microbe habitat.
5. Cover Material Envelope
   • Compost must be thoroughly covered with straw, leaves, or similar to prevent odor and flies. See below section for more details related to the compost bin cover material (some of these requirements are different than the “toilet cover material”)
   • The compost must be covered by cover material on all sides as well (it must be covered below, from the step above, on all sides, as well as on top.)
   • Every new deposit of compost toilet material should be buried in the center and re-covered with new compost bin cover material (since compost toilet material is buried in the center, the “side” cover material is automatically created.)
6. Soil Base (No Concrete Needed)
   • Encourages interaction with soil microbes and natural drainage.
   • Optional: dish the soil into a shallow bowl to trap any excess liquid.
7. Animal-Proof Design
   • Use fencing, wire mesh, or walls to prevent intrusion by rats, dogs, goats, etc.
8. Moisture Control
   • Compost should be damp, not soggy. Use a tarp or more cover material if exposed to heavy rain.
   • Leachate should not run off—if necessary, add dry material to soak up excess liquid.
9. No Turning Required
   • Just add, cover, and leave it alone to cure after the bin is full (this could take up to one year or longer, depending on the size of the bin and how quickly material is added to it). Turning is NOT necessary.
   • See this video for a demonstration of starting a compost pile: https://youtu.be/1BWc-RjuWbs?feature=shared
10. Thermometer Monitoring (Optional)
    • A compost thermometer can help you monitor biological heating and progress.

As mentioned in number 5, see below for more details on the compost bin cover materials.

✅ Acceptable Cover Materials for the Compost Bin

These are typically carbon-rich plant materials that help maintain aerobic conditions (aerobic means conditions that supply oxygen to the helpful bacteria), control odors, insulate the pile, and filter flies:

1. Straw or Hay
   • Ideal for creating a thick insulating and biofilter layer.
2. Leaves
   • Preferably shredded and slightly decomposed for better coverage and microbial activity.
3. Grass Clippings
   • Should be used dry or partially composted to avoid matting.
4. Weeds and Garden Waste
   • As long as they haven’t gone to seed and are not chemically treated.
5. Wood Shavings or Chips
   • Should be partially rotted or moist; fresh, dry shavings may absorb too much nitrogen and slow composting.
6. Sugarcane Bagasse, Rice Hulls, or Crop Residues
   • Excellent options where locally available and processed to a usable texture.

Requirements of Cover Material for Compost Bins

To function effectively, cover materials must meet the following criteria:

Requirement	Explanation
Carbon-rich (Carbon:Nitrogen or C:N balancing)	Helps balance the nitrogen-rich toilet material (urine/feces).
Slightly Moist	Encourages microbial activity; dry materials won’t compost effectively.
Air-Permeable	Maintains aerobic (oxygen) conditions inside the pile.
Insulating	Helps retain the internal biological heat necessary for pathogen reduction.
Odor-Blocking	Forms a biofilter layer to block smells and prevent fly access.
Locally Available	Should be easy to source, renewable, and preferably free or inexpensive.

❌ Avoid Using

• Plastics, synthetics, or trash
• Chemically treated wood or plant material
• Seeds from weeds (unless composting at high temps)
• Food scraps (except when mixed directly with toilet material)
• Dirt; again, this is what we want to end up with, so it is not what we start with

See next pages for examples of compost bins made from various materials and set up in different configurations. When it refers to the “author,” this is referring to Joseph Jenkins. Also, see the following YouTube video for Joseph demonstrating how to quickly make a compost bin from used pallets: https://youtu.be/Ul51Uz0qfHU?feature=shared

Choosing a Good Location for the Compost Bin

Before you build your compost bin, it’s important to choose a safe and practical place to put it.

• Choose a shaded area if possible. This keeps the pile from drying out too quickly in hot weather.
• Keep it at least 30 meters (100 feet) away from any wells, lakes, rivers, or streams. This helps prevent contamination of drinking water.
• The ground should be well-drained. Avoid areas where water pools after rain.
• Pick a place that is easy to get to, but still private.
• As always, check local rules. In some places, you may need to follow certain guidelines or get permission.
• Do not place the pile in protected forests or on land you do not own or have permission to use.

The pile does not smell if managed correctly, but it is still a good idea to place it slightly away from living areas or gardens.

Steps for Using the Compost Toilet System:

1. Use the Toilet

• Urinate and defecate directly into the toilet receptacle.
• Toilet paper and menstrual fluids are acceptable.
• Vomit and diarrhea are okay as well, as they are organic materials.
• Do not add trash or synthetic (such as plastic) materials, as these will not compost.
  

2. Cover After Each Use

• Immediately cover your deposit with a carbon-rich cover material:
  • e.g., sawdust, shredded leaves, rice hulls, sugarcane bagasse (refer to the “Common Toilet Cover Materials” section.)
• Ensure no odor or visible material remains exposed. If odor is still present, simply add more cover material.

3. Monitor Receptacle Fill Level

• When nearly full (typically after ~1 week per person for a 5-gallon receptacle):
  • Place a lid on the full container.
  • Replace it with a clean, empty container.

4. Transport to Compost Bin

• Move full containers to the compost bin site (ideally nearby).
• Use proper handling and avoid spills.
• Can be stored temporarily if needed, as long as sealed. (For example, a family of 4 might fill 4 containers in 1 week. These 4 containers can simply be stored somewhere with their lids on until the end of the week, at which time one can proceed to step 5 below.)

5. Deposit into Compost Bin

• With a rake or similar tool, push the top layer of cover material to the sides of the compost bin.
• Create a depression in the center of the actual compost pile (which was located under the top layer of cover material).
• Dump contents from the toilet container into the depression.
• Cover with compost and fresh cover material (e.g., straw, leaves).
• Add sufficient cover material until there is no longer any smell coming from the compost.
• Refer to below image and the following Youtube video for a demonstration of this step: https://youtu.be/bmNERBwCnMs?feature=shared

6. Rinse and Reuse Containers

• Rinse toilet receptacles with minimal water.
• Pour rinse water into the compost bin (compost retains a lot of water, and the bacteria that do the composting need this moisture to be able to move around the pile.)
• When cleaning the toilet receptacles, use a small amount of soap if needed; it won’t harm compost.
  

7. Manage the Compost Pile

• Maintain aerobic conditions with regular deposits and cover layers.
• Keep compost moist but not soggy.
• It is recommended to monitor temperature with a compost thermometer. The thermometer should be 45 – 60 cm (18 – 24 inches) so that it goes in to the compost pile, past the cover material.
• When full, let the bin cure for at least one year.

8. Use Finished Compost

• After aging, compost can be used safely on:
  • Trees, flowers, landscaping, and (if tested) food crops.
• Wear gloves when handling and avoid direct food contact unless tested safe.

How a Composting System Removes Pathogens from Human Excrement (aka “Humanure”):

1. Role of Thermophilic Microorganisms

• Composting relies on aerobic (oxygen), heat-producing (thermophilic) microorganisms.
• These microbes break down organic matter while generating internal biological heat.
• By monitoring the compost with a thermometer (something like a 20” long thermometer so that it gets passed the top layer of compost bin cover material and ends up in the compost itself), one can confidently see the temperature that the compost gets to
• Note: Temperatures above 65°C (149°F) in a compost pile are generally considered too high and can begin to kill beneficial, heat-loving thermophilic bacteria that are essential to the composting process.

2. Temperature and Time for Pathogen Elimination

Temperature (°C)	Temperature (°F)	Time to Eliminate Pathogens
50°C	122°F	Several days
55°C	131°F	A few hours to 1 day (for many pathogens)
60°C	140°F	A few hours

Sustained temperatures of 55–60°C (131–140°F) are highly effective at destroying:

• Fecal coliforms (e.g., E. coli)
• Roundworms (Ascaris)
• Viruses
• Protozoa and helminths

3. Curing Time (Resting Phase)

• After the compost bin is full, it must rest to allow remaining pathogens to die off.
• Minimum curing time: 1 year
  • This period ensures the compost is fully stabilized, safe, and odor-free.
• In higher-risk situations (e.g., hospital waste, endemic disease), a 2-year cure time is recommended.

4. Safety Factors Beyond Heat

• Microbial competition: Beneficial microbes outcompete or consume pathogens.
• Time: Even if thermophilic temperatures aren’t reached, extended aging reduces pathogen viability.
• Moisture control and aerobic conditions also contribute to effective sanitization.

5. Post-Composting Use Precautions

• Use compost away from food crops if not lab-tested.
• Always wear gloves when handling finished compost.
• After curing, compost can be safely used on trees, ornamentals, and soil building.

Troubleshooting

Most compost toilet systems work well when managed properly. If you run into problems, use the guide below to fix them.

Problem: It smells bad when you open the toilet lid

Possible causes:

• Not enough cover material
• Too wet inside the toilet bucket
• Cover material not absorbent enough

What to do:

• Add a large handful of dry cover material after every use
• Use a more absorbent material like sawdust or shredded leaves
• Keep a container of dry cover material next to the toilet so it’s always used

Problem: There are flies in or around the toilet

Possible causes:

• Cover material not being added consistently
• Cover material is too loose or too coarse
• Toilet bucket left open for too long

What to do:

• Always cover each use completely with cover material
• Try finer cover material like sawdust, or a mix of sawdust and leaves
• Always keep the lid on when the toilet is not being used

Problem: The compost pile is not heating up

Possible causes:

• Not enough fresh deposits of toilet material (nitrogen)
• Pile is too small
• Pile is too dry
• Not layered properly

What to do:

• Make sure you are adding toilet containers regularly
• Add at least 1 full bucket at a time to keep the pile active
• Add water if the pile feels dry — it should be damp like a wrung-out sponge
• As per the instructions for using the compost pile, dig a small hole into the top of the compost pile (after pushing the top cover material to the sides of the bin), add toilet material into the hole, cover with the compost material that was pushed aside, and then move the existing cover material back on top of the compost and add fresh cover material
• Food/kitchen scraps can be put into the small hole with the toilet material

Problem: The compost is too wet

Possible causes:

• Too much urine in one spot
• Pile in a low spot or gets rained on
• Not enough dry material added with each bucket

What to do:

• Add more dry cover material when adding each bucket
• Mix in dry leaves, sawdust, or shredded paper if the pile is soggy
• Cover the pile with a tarp during heavy rain
• Note that active compost piles are like a huge sponge, and can absorb a lot of water before becoming over-saturated

Problem: The pile freezes in winter

Possible causes:

• Very cold weather
• Not enough mass to hold heat

What to do:

• If possible, build the pile larger (more than 1 meter tall)
• Add kitchen scraps or green materials to help it heat up
• Don’t worry — the composting will restart in spring when it warms up